Thursday, February 02, 2006

San Cristóbal de las Casas

I was up far too early this morning in Palenque, trying to figure out if what I was hearing were weary roosters or their drunken imitators headinghome after a night out. It was 5AM, but I stayed in bed until about 6, at which point I got my stuff together and headed for the bus to San Cristóbal de las Casas.

The bus rides provided amazing views as we wove through mountain passes above 2300 metres. At one crest, the dense foliage broke into grasslands and pine - a sure sign of the Pacific rainshadow that stretches from the Okanagan to here. I remember Derek and I drove through the same on our way down to Colima way back when.

San Cristóbal itself is a city of about 130,000 people sitting in the high sierra. The town has a very colonial feel, despite being the centre of both Mayan and Zapatista resistance movements against the powers that be. Extending fiveblocks in either direction from the plaza is another cobblestone pedestrian walkway, filled with coffee shops, restaurants, and general knick-knacks. All other streets are cobblestone as well. The daily market at the top of town is a vegetarian heaven, and a Mayan market spills onto the street just above the plaza. One notable stall is the one selling various Zapatista items.

The backpackers hostel is nice, if noisy. If you like the hostel nightlife, you'd like it. Two British guys - one named Felix - displayed their talents by drinking 4 litres of beer each and leaving the kitchen an absolute mess. The place is definitely well-equipped (internet is free), but a cold night's sleep left me disappointed when they didn't deliver on the hot showers they advertised. Still, at 50 pesos per night, I am not compaining. The cats are nice too.

I just downed another very weak coffee - four days in a row now - and this was even from a local roastery. The streak continues. Off to Cañon del Sumidero today - another post and photos (finally tracked down a cord) to follow.

4 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Sounds like things continue to go swimmingly. I've tried to get in touch with Mary re: the hiking info, so I'll send it as soon as I have it.

Looking forward to the next post; it's way more fun to read about your adventures than to actually be productive.

11:15 AM

 
Blogger camarooned said...

Hey Pam,

There are places for good coffeee, but they are hard to sniff out. You see all the right signs (barista looking baristas, a roaster, nice machine, etc.), and then BAM!, something goes wrong in the process. It comes out tasting like weak tea.

5:20 PM

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Oh no! weak coffee??!!! Guess I'll have to bring our own Bean Scene supply when we come down there. Wonder if that's "legal"??

What hostel did you stay at? Which bus company/ies are you using?

How far south are you?

Keep on posting:))Looking fwd. to pic's.

6:17 PM

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hey, too bad your post about the Sumidero canyon got lost. I didn't get your message to copy the text until it was too late. Are you able to sue blogspot and fund the rest of your trip on the gains?

How did your volcano hike go? Do you need a trip back to the hotsprings to recuperate now?

12:23 PM

 

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