Isla Holbox

I managed to get to Holbox in one piece, and thankfully found an Internet Cafe / Money Exchange to burn abother traveller's cheque. I still made myself eat the classic cold dinner* before cashing in.

Cam's Classic Cold Dinner:

Tortillas (preferably corn)
Can of Refried Black Beans
Tomato
Avocado
Lime

Cut tomato and lime. Squish avocado as much as possible without breaking skin. Open can of beans, shaping top of can into a scoop. Lay tortillas out on plate or lap. Scoop refried beans onto tortillas. Add tomato. Cut opening in avocado near the stem and squeeze out fresh guacamole. Add squeeze of lime. Enjoy.

*Can also pass as breakfast and lunch.

Isla Holbox is beautiful, don't get me wrong. Just don't go to the beach, where you will be swarmed by tiny sand flies. I hear the cure is baby oil all over your exposed bits - the flies drown in the oil, leaving you with the task of wiping the black mass off your person every few minutes. I wasn't too keen on this approach - not keen on coating myself in oil before heading out into the sun, or wearing the bug coat.

And if the flies aren't enough, don't forget mosquito hour (or two), when the bugs go absolutely nutbars for human blood. Moscos here can land on you in a 50km/h wind, making their Canadian counterparts look like pansies.

What you do find on Holbox after surviving the bugs may well be worth the visit. The eight kilometres of beach on the north side of town will seem to be yours alone. Locals and tourists (mostly Italian) are laid back and friendly in a style similar to Caye Caulker. Hotels are cheap (camping was still closed due to hurricane damage when I was there), and there is an occasional free flop to be found.

On arriving and departing, take it easy and wait for the slow ferry. It costs only ten pesos (versus fourty for other boats), and the pod of dolphins that hangs out midway between the docks will often play in the carve of the slower ferry.