marooned

Hiatus... now past tense.

2011-08-06T23:09:00.001-07:00

Exactly two years ago today was my last blog post. So much to cover, but such little time. It almost warrants a word cloud.

Speedway - Again

2009-08-06T15:32:00.000-07:00

Another visit to Speedway in late July. Again, took no trad gear, as the time spent fiddling with the gear does not seem to be worth it given the grade. If you are comfortable with the 30' runout to the first bolt on the crux pitch, then you are laughing.

Another duo from Vernon set out ahead of us, but we passed them on the 4th pitch as they followed what was likely the old Becky Line. We waited for them at the top, and discussed options and possibilities of this 'easy' scramble to the top. We opted to rap down the route, and the Vernon duo set out to reach the summit.

We topped out in about 90 minutes, which had us at 2.5 hours return, and 6 hours return to the car. We noticed that the Vernon duo turned back from their attempt to get to the top, and we waited for a while for them to get to the base of the climb. But then, we noticed that they were rapping on only one rope. Not the end of the world, as you may be able to link up the bolts to make for mid-pitch rappels, but definitely a hairy way to travel. They were slowly picking their way down the line, but were not stuck, so we moved on.

Yak Peak Speedway

2009-07-02T15:28:00.001-07:00

Up the SouthWest Side of Yak/Nak Peaks on the Coquihalla last Sunday. The climb is called Speedway, running 11 pitches up into what's supposed to be a scramble to the top (yeah,right).

The toughest pitch goes at 5.8, and after the warm welcome of the lower pitches, it catches you a bit off guard. The 2 bolts on the crux pitch seem a bit run out when you start to tighten up, but given that there are maybe 6 bolts on the whole climb, I guess it's on par with the whole route. Nice rests at the stations, which are mostly rap hangers.

Can't wait to get back on the granite there. I miss the slab climbing of Squamish, and will gladly drive the 2 hours to get some more of Yak.

First World Problems

2008-12-05T09:23:00.000-08:00

Yes, we have a suspended Parliament, and a government that may fall on January 27th. Still, when put in perspective, these are definitely first world problems.

(Except for the notion that one measure proposed by the Conservative Gov't was to prevent women pursuing pay equity recourse to the Human Rights Coalition - doing so by making pay equity a parliamentary matter.)

To put our political "crisis" into context, let's take a look at recent news around the globe:

Acid attacks by men on women are a common thing. Exerpt: "Since 1994, Ms. Bukhari has documented 7,800 cases of women who were deliberately burned, scalded or subjected to acid attacks, just in the Islamabad area. In only 2 percent of those cases was anyone convicted. " That's just under 2 attacks per day, every day, since 1994, in just one city.

The CDN military may have been ordered to ignore cases of childhood sexual abuse. Exerpt: "Whispers of sexual abuse allegedly perpetrated by Afghan soldiers against young boys have been commonly heard among Canadian troops, with many referring to such incidents as "man love Thursdays."" Chances are, if there's a saying for it, it happens.

Survey Results! We're Not Prorogued!

2008-12-05T01:07:00.000-08:00

So, here are the results! 30 respondents in total. Thanks All!

1. Do you support the Liberal-NDP-Bloc coalition?

Yes - 50%
No - 50%

I can't believe this was an exact tie.

2. If you voted no, what are your reasons for not supporting the coalition?

Stephane Dion / Jack Layton / Gilles Duceppe: 7 of 14 who answered the q.
Coalition has no mandate from CDN Voters: 11 of 14
The presence of the Bloc: 8 of 14
The presence of the Liberals: 1
The presence of the NDP: 3
The presence of any three of the parties: 3

Best Other for Q2 (2 comments): "Conservative have not had time to prepare a budget."

3. If you voted yes, what are your reasons for supporting the coalition?

Conservatives no longer have the mandate to govern: 5 of 13
Conservatives didn't cooperate in Parliament: 11 of 13
Coalitions work in other countries - why not ours?: 3 of 13
Anything must be better than this: 5 of 13
Stephen Harper: 8 of 13

Best Other for Q3 (out of 5): "Why not? This could be interesting!"

4. The Top 3 Additional Comments:

3: "It's a little embarrassing when the incoming US government is more liberal than the party in power in Canada."
2: "The Harper government is working on plans for economic stimulus give him time. WHAT IS THE ALTERNATIVE>>>>>>>>>The 3 stooges????"

... and what I believe is the best comment...

"Regardless what happens, the sun will rise, the sun will set and in ten years this whole situation will be an interesting historical event from which future politicians, political theorists, historians and all Canadians (and maybe even some other countries) can learn.........something!"

Coalition Survey - A Simple Yes / No

2008-12-02T18:47:00.001-08:00

Located here.

*** New: The survey site doesn't allow me to share the results right away, but I will post results here on Friday. ***

You can leave comments in the comments section of the blog if you'd like!

Honourable Mention: Jeremy Paxman

2008-10-21T20:13:00.000-07:00

I hear Jeremy can turn a good interview as well. But I will have to go with Charlie Rose. I first saw him interviewing p.t. anderson about Magnolia (and a little Boogie Nights), and it is still one of my favourite films.

See here for more details.

And a visual, not of Magnolia, but of Boogie Nights, which obviously has way more to offer in the visuals category....

Browsing History, Ocrober 16

2008-10-16T23:02:00.000-07:00

Presently away from home for the first time since... August, and am browsing to fill the time before bed.

Genius Boyfriends are Really Idiots

Small Things Are Cool

McCain Supports ACORN, But Obama Will Win Anyways

The Bee-Gees are Good for Something

The Best Television Program Around

2008-10-16T22:30:00.000-07:00

I can't believe this man is not CDN.

Wine Trio Reviews - Inaugural

2008-04-09T14:58:00.000-07:00

Two wines were tested for our first Wine Trio Review. They are:

McLarens On The Lake Shiraz 2006. Price: $12.99
Combined Score*: 22
Comments: Good potential, but a little green. Give it six months to a year to develop, and this wine will compare to and exceed many $25 offerings from Australia. Will re-sample in a year - if the bottle lasts that long.
http://bcliquorstores.com/en/products/341404

Terra Sana Organic Syrah 2006. Price: $14.99
Combined Score: 23.5
Comments: A more balanced wine that the first, and really holds its own as a good table wine. However, like most organics in the range, the emphasis seems to be making a palatable rather than an interesting wine. Does not compare to the Organic Cono Sur.
http://bcliquorstores.com/en/products/197582

* Testing is completed as follows: Three of us rate the wine between 1 and 10, in 0.5 increments, and these three ratings are combined to form the total score. Comments are usually defined by consensus, though the author reserves the right to create new content on the off chance that too many wines are tested and some of the feedback during testing is lost.

Spring in the OK, and All Things Domestic

2008-04-03T15:38:00.000-07:00

Back on the island (truly marooned), for another long work stint. The extra days off this week were a blessing, filled with great weather (including sun alongside snow on April Fool's Day - good one, Nature) and great people.

The weekend really started with a call from HW on Saturday morning, claiming he touted breakers and wanted to "giver". By 5pm, he, my Dad, and I had all that ridiculous concrete broken out from the carport that leads in from our barn door back door. We even tore into the old throne - kind of sad to see that feature go....

And then we hosted a poker night for twelve on Saturday, and we even managed to incorporate about 7 rookies without much ado. Two of those rookies were just dropping in from, um, Darfur for the night. Good to see them again, even though time was short - hope they liked the waffles.

And then Jo and the two men in her life came by around lunch on Sunday. Turns out we both had something to be sorry for, so the Kill Bill reference seemed to dissipate. What a great couple guys she's found.

Ambition got the better of me (as per normal), and I ended Monday breaking out the stairs to the back door. And then a whole bunch of cleanup rounded out Tuesday and Wednesday - if you ever want a workout, move concrete.

Oh, and a trip to Summerland on Wednesday, where I was shocked to see how the whole place is going to sh*t. How quickly we deface a beautiful hillside in the name of progress and safety - I like risk in my life, and I'd rather pay attention while driving than see a hillside completely destroyed.

But now all I can think about is house renos - rip down the shed, tear out the basement, rebuild the retaining wall - and I wonder why I am caught down here on the Coast yet again. Where's a piece of paper? I need to make a list.....

5 Good News Stories This Week

2008-03-27T19:37:00.000-07:00

On the theme of lists, I thought I should start by providing you with 5 news stories that actually make you think the world is moving in the right direction (even if it's about 5 years slower than you'd like).

1. The BC Government may be acknowledging that open-net fish farming is pretty bad stuff.
2. The French, like French Canadians (who, in Quebec, are leading the whole country in social policy) may have their priorities straight.
3. People are remembering that there is more to life than just function.
4. No more coverage (games or news) of these guys.
5. Hot air balloons are getting safer.

Ok, I may have cheated a bit on the last 3, but in defense of #4, Les Habs and the Senators are simply far more exciting to watch.

Blog? I Have A Blog?

2008-03-21T21:10:00.000-07:00

Oh, I'm sorry, I've only been completely distracted by trying to finish out a new place, and then work in a city that prevents me actually living there during the week. But, I have made a promise to renew my blogging in the next few days. Expect some basic stretching at first, like some lists and links.

Stretch #1: Head tilting to the left. Tilt. Hold. Breathe. Repeat.

Sold

2007-06-17T10:10:00.001-07:00

All of you with reno/repair skills be warned: we are coming for you.

The mls listing: 9171002

The map: (google)

Miss World 2007 - Quotable

2007-05-29T20:02:00.000-07:00

From the conversation Pam, Alex, and I had as we watched the Top Five in Miss World 2007:

"Brazil is totally going to win".
"Definitely - she is the only blonde on stage".

Stop What You Are Doing

2007-03-29T01:59:00.000-07:00

Enough about catching up. This is catching up. Stop what you are doing and listen to ratatat. Bring all your fears and frustrations. Fight through them as you listen to Daft Punk meets Iron Maiden solos meets Mario Brothers. And in the end you will feel like everything is right in the world, because they leave you to construct the lyrics, and you wouldn't trade anything for all that's wrong in your life, and all you want is to raise your hands and shake, shake, shake until the feeling ends.

And then you leave the show, and everything comes back again, but this time softer, because the ringing in your ears reminds you that everything has a context, and nothing can't be overcome.

Update # 2 - January

2007-02-28T10:13:00.000-08:00

So, the contract has started. I have been running around trying to sort out the details and logistics of getting hardware and furniture in place. I have been scouring craigslist religiously, and have managed to source all my desks in the past month. I seem to be taking them off the hands of those moving, downsizing, or reconfiguring their spaces.

The trouble with craigslist is that I have now cultivated a bit of an addiction to it. I find myself looking for items I have recently bought, and I need to fight a compulsion to buy in excess every time I see one. It is absolutely crazy. And I love it.

Another malady has surfaced now that I am here: IKEA As-Is sectionitis. I drop in every couple of days (it's only two blocks from here) just to peruse IKEA's marked down junk. I almost buy things, but then back out. It is such a waste of time I am thinking of sanctioning myself.

There has been a lot of upheaval in my life, given the move to Kelowna from Victoria, and now the working in the Vancouver area. I have landed sublets for the duration I think I will be here (to April 30), but I am trying to still build something resembling a life in the Okanagan. Getting back to Kelowna involves a four-hour drive over the second highest pass in BC (1728m - I have seen the sign so often it is etched into my head, probably taking up the space where that person's name I just met is supposed to be). It is nice to go back for weekends, but the commute is getting longer and longer. I think I will try to limit my trips to twice a month, though Friday nights at Sturgeon Hall will be missed.

Update #1 - To Christmas

2007-02-17T20:26:00.000-08:00

Sorry to all for neglecting my blog for the past while. So much has been happening that I haven't had time to catch up. So here's update #1, which I suppose will take me roughly to Christmas.

I won a contract in the lower mainland, which had me careening back and forth between Kelowna and Vancouver. This is the first step out working as an independent company, so there's plenty that needed done. The contract involves a backfile conversion, bringing approximately ten years of paper archives into digital format. I hope to not be the one actually doing the work, but I am so hands-on I doubt I will sleep if I don't. Luckily, I was able to secure some reliable help in a hurry - a good old friend moving back from Ontario agreed to assist.

Not three days after getting to Kelowna, I won a snowboard in a bar (of ill-repute). But hey, beggars can't be choosers, and I didn't even know where we were going (being led by Joel). The large, tall stage tipped me off once we were there. Anyways, I have only been back once since, and that was the next day to pick up the board. I didn't get the rest of the gear until Xmas, so I didn't take advantage of the great conditions early in the season.

More children to report - Ruby Eileen Marshall arrived in early December, and Graeme and Ali are doing well. Ryan and AM are expecting, as are Lucky and Nancy. Oh, and Brendan and Simone. And, as of early December, my sister was too.

Sometime when I was in Vancouver, my mom was told about some concerns on her last mammogram. They performed the biopsy, and everyone was on pins and needles before the holidays. The only gift we wanted was for my Mom to be well. And that was the gift we got - no calcification outside the duct (I did know what that meant at the time). That was the highlight of Christmas for everyone, as we rested in our separate ways - Pam, Alex, and Sonja in Vancouver (awaiting a family addition, due January 1), and me, Mom, Dad, and D drinking our fair share while playing poker with Joel on Christmas eve. I lost quite handily both times, but I would wish for that kind of Christmas every year, hands down.

Treasure Hunting While Cleaning House

2006-11-29T16:50:00.000-08:00

I am still settling into my new digs here in Kelowna. Fortunately, I have the time to do so. Of course, when you have an excess of time, you tend to attack those chores you have put off for the past, oh, one or two years. Like sorting through all the paper you've kept.

Given the amount of items I deemed important enough to keep, you'd think I was building a nest of paper. Items like: paid parking tickets from 2002; receipts for clothes I have worn threadbare; transfer papers for my motorcycle (sold in 2003). Destination: shredder.

But there are also items that I am happy to come across, such as this:

This is the pamphlet from the last mountain bike race I ever entered. It took place in México, just West of Guadalajara, in 1999. I was terrible! Two 18-kilometre laps, with a whole lot of climbing. I also came across my race number. It is nice to have a memento of my first road trip to México, and makes me want to go back.

2006-11-14T10:13:00.000-08:00

Sorry I have been slow to post lately - I just haven't been able to keep my hands dry enough to get near a keyboard.

I hear Kelowna is faring no better, so the long-term forecast is not good. Here's hoping it is snow by the time I return.

Exit Strategies

2006-10-29T02:27:00.000-08:00

The idea of the exit strategy has been reeling in my head lately. An obvious theme, given the move. But I think that in this I have caught a very unfortunate trait of myself (and likely many others), in that I am thinking about the way out rather than the way in.

What future awaits, now that I am here, living not four blocks from the place I was brought home to after being born?

I Should Be A Tour Guide

2006-09-29T10:52:00.000-07:00

So my long-time friend B. came through with her new Aussie partner. I think they count as only the 7th and 8th guests on the Island, in two years of living here. I don't need a guest book - I need a guest page. And if I had one, both B. and Sarah would appear twice. No wonder I want to get out of this prison.

But there are some great sights to see here on Vancouver Island, and I was happy that I could show a few to B.'s partner David. I picked them up at the ferry, and learned immediately of David's list of things to see in Canada (on his first visit). Plenty of animals were listed, including a bear. I took up the challenge to oblige, strangely convinced I could provide David with a bear experience.

The closest place to Victoria that is frequented by bears is the coast out towards Port Renfrew. So we took a tour out there one morning, stopping in at Sombrio Beach to start. Walking down the trail to the beach, we could go left or right, and I chose right. We crossed a stream via a fallen tree, and continued West. I noticed a camper peering over a snag of trees about 100m down the beach.

We approached, and he indicated he was watching a bear on the beach! We got to the snag, and sure enough, there was a bear, turning over rocks to find edibles in the low tide. David was impressed, and so was I, having delivered one of the must-see items on his list not 48 hours after he was off the plane.

I should note that I was definitely disappointed when, in two weekends of hiking the Juan de Fuca Trail last year and coming across piles of bear 'evidence' (some even steaming), I did not see a bear. Before last year I had a bit of bear phobia (osophobia?) as well, so it was great to observe the bear from a safe distance as s/he chowed down on ocean goodies for about fifteen minutes.

Which Side Are We On?

2006-09-21T15:06:00.000-07:00

Recent speeches at the UN show the slow-growing divide between the West and the rest. And by West, I mean the United States. Sure, Britain may be tagging along, but really it's all about coat-tailing on US policy.

And as it turns out, we are going with them. Our PM stands up and says, 'Canada is back', and I get the sense he meant to say, 'Canada is back onside'. The less composed speech from Hugo Chavez (gotta love his courage to stand up and call Bush a devil, not 'The Devil' as reported) and the tempered words of Mahmoud Ahmadinejad (who scored quite a coup) were both great distractions for Harper, as he began to model our foreign policy on our neighbour's.

Fellow travellers, expect to un-stitch the Maple Leaf from your bag, because I bet we won't be quite as welcome in the far-flung places of the world.

It's not the bike... really

2006-08-28T19:49:00.000-07:00

Despite all of the bullsh*t that has tarnished the sport of cycling lately, I am still pretty keen on getting out there and turning the pedals over. Adding to my desire to be on two wheels is my new bike - a Marinoni Leggero, ordered to my size.

I am very happy with the bike for a number of reasons. First, Marinoni is Canadian, and very much a family-run business - rumour has it Mrs. Marinoni paints the bikes herself, and will refuse out of hand any colour selection that does not match her personal tastes. Second, the bike is hand-crafted steel. Steel is an amazingly comfortable ride, and it makes my previous bike (an Aluminum Kona Deluxe) feel about as comfortable as drawing bottoms in prison. Finally, my bike is super sharp, because I got to pick the colours. Now if only I had a jersey to match!

And now, because I am keen on getting out, I am getting out on the bike more. this has led to some results. For instance, I rode 70km today at an average of just over 31km/h this afternoon, when I had previously been averaging about 28km/h. Maybe it's me getting fitter, or maybe it's me settling into the new position. But it's not the bike... really.

Climbing... Finally

2006-08-17T11:58:00.000-07:00

We finally got over to Squamish for our first climbing of the year. While we didn't climb The Chief, we did stand in the shadow of it for a while.

No, we decided on Smoke Bluffs instead. Sunday evening was nice and quiet, and we didn't venture over 5.9 on lead or 5.10a on TR. Monday was warm - the stiff slab on Burgers and Fries was a bit greasy, but I managed every move on a 5.10c (doing some of them twice!). That said, I may now need a new pair of shoes, because the soles of my shoes have pretty much had it.

Placing gear felt as easy as speaking Mandarin, which I haven't done since my final year of University. Still, the emphasis was on being safe, and not getting spooked on gear lead. By these measures the weekend was a success, and I come away keen on climbing again. Maybe Penticton or the Apron next?

Not The One

2006-08-08T09:29:00.000-07:00

Remember the furor that resulted from our beloved CBC bumping The National for an ABC show called The One? Remember the flicker of publicity about a Canadian host?

The show is so gone. Try to find any mention of it on the CBC site. I found one link to the page at ABC, which notes:

There are no plans for additional episodes. Thanks to all who participated in and supported The One!

When I search the CBC site for The One, the fourth result is 'Peter Mansbridge One on One'. To all reality programmers at the CBC: if you try to go one-on-one with Peter Mansbridge, you will lose.

Just when you are inspired by an athlete's performance....

2006-08-02T16:44:00.000-07:00

The spectre of doping rears its ugly head again.

Noone can produce synthetic testosterone, and no amount of alcohol or sex produces an 11:1 ratio of testosterone to epitestosterone.

Here's hoping the samples at least match. Even if they don't, Dick Pound is right - cycling's anti-doping program is very, very broken.

When I'm 34

2006-07-10T16:23:00.000-07:00

I took the day off today, because it's my birthday! I spent the morning on the deck sifting through old bike parts, and treated myself to a nice iced espresso down at the Bean in Chinatown.

It turns out that I have enough bike parts for two mountain bikes and one road bike. So I spent a bit of time this afternoon looking around town for a bike to turn into a project. No luck - nothing in my size. I am giving myself one more month of looking, and then the whole lot is going to be donated.

I just survived another stag party weekend over in Vancouver - pretty laid back, which was nice. I managed to get a hike up the Grouse Grind in just after the World Cup Final, and was somewhat impressed with my time - 48:20. My best is 41:30, so there has been some slippage as I've aged. I hit the ferry lineup at Horseshoe Bay immediately after, and had to suffer through the 1-sailing wait - I can't wait until I am off the island and don't have to deal with ferries.

Well, I am heading off into the afternoon to enjoy the remainder of my b-day. Later!

Getting off the island this weekend.

2006-07-07T14:29:00.000-07:00

After the absolute disintegration of hiking plans this past weekend, I am heading over to Vancouver for a weekend catching up with old friends and definitely some family. Who knows what the weekend holds - I may watch the World Cup Final on Commercial Drive (aka, Little Italy) on Sunday. This was taken after Italy won their semi-final - imagine if they win on Sunday!

But I do need to tell you about the long weekend that just passed, where absolutely nothing happened. So we had planned to head to Strathcona Provincial Park, to do some backpacking up in the alpine. All plans were in place, right down to the freeze-dried food. Ahh, three days up on high, out of this tight corner of the island.

On Thursday evening, Cim emailed over the link to the updated Parks page. Three feet of snow in the still closed campground where we planned to pitch tent. Generally terrible conditions due to the snowpack that was holding on from the cool spring days. So we had a quick chat on the phone, and considered the Olympic range, but decided on the Juan de Fuca Trail. Sea level = no snow.

We got to the trailhead Friday evening, and were really ready to go, super keen like kids at Christmas about the prospect of getting out into the trees. I got out of the car in the lot at China Beach Trailhead, and noticed the posting first. Problem bear in area - Trailhead closed from Bear Beach to Chin Beach (or KM 5-15 of our hike). Chin and Bear are two great places to camp overnight, when bears are not involved.

As we debated what to do next, a car pulled up and a hiker got out with a piece of paper to post. He indicated that that same bear had taken his pack that afternoon on Bear Beach, as he and his group stopped for lunch. Not in the attacked-him-and-took-it-away way, but more along the lines of being curious enough to have the hiker back away a bit, at which point the bear smelled the bag's contents, chomped onto it, and pulled it into the bush. Our plans disappeared along with the hiker's pack, up into the salal with the bear.

So we regrouped, and opted for dinner at Jordan River while we considered our long weekend options. It was too windy at Jordan River to set up our stoves, so we just came back to town and ate our freeze-dried dinner in Cim and Sarah's kitchen. Headlamp added for effect.

I did take advantage of the time on Sunday to tally 99.3km on the bike, up and around Shawnigan Lake. Almost fit enough to take ownership of my new bike - can hardly wait!

My New Tour Favourite

2006-06-30T11:19:00.000-07:00

With Basso, Ullrich, and Mansebo out, and Vinokourov without most of his team, I say...

watch out for this guy:

Summer! Summer! Summer!

2006-06-26T15:36:00.000-07:00

I am a total summer junkie. The dry desert heat of the Okanagan feels like a part of me that's missing as I while away my days on the Coast.

That is, until that Okanagan heat comes for a visit, which it has this week! Yesterday was a scorcher here, and I split from Cim and Sarah's place at 8:30AM (after 4 hours of sleep (!!) ) in order to soak it up. I spent a good portion of Sunday in the back yard adding some touches to the garden. The day ended as any summer day should, with a swim at the lake (Upper Thetis Lake shown).

I will be out on the bike tonight once it cools down, piquing my interest in cycling so I am sufficiently stoked when The Tour de France starts and I receive my new frame. The Tour is going to be great, and it is definitely generating quite a buzz. My prediction: a tight race between Ullrich, Basso, and Vinokourov, with some surprises from this guy, this guy, and maybe even the former world MTB champ!

The Cups Runneth Over

2006-06-14T16:38:00.000-07:00

I am swamped by coverage of both the Stanley Cup and FIFA World Cup. To this point, I never really even realised I cared. But the hockey is good, with Edmonton (once) playing the best hockey I have seen in years. And the World Cup is, well, the World Cup, and you have to care because it is the sport of the world. Heck, I even watched a documentary on Maradona last night!

Strangely enough, this has left me happy that the Phoenix Suns are out of the NBA playoffs, because I would have been watching that, too.

This endless TV and couch surfing means I have been delinquent about many things these past two weeks. I am shorting myself on exercise (though I did run a 2:04 at the very hilly, soft-trailed half marathon in Ucluelet on Sunday) , I have not kept in contact with family and friends (sorry all, esp. Jana and Mike), and I am desperately short of sleep (not really by choice). Then again, ask me for an opinion on:

whether Edmonton will win tonight;
what the solution to their horrible power play is;
which African team will make it to the second round;
if the US squad deserves its #5 ranking, or;
the population of Trinidad and Tobago (who has 1/20th the people of Canada, but can still make a World Cup appearance);

... and I can provide a heady response. Or are heady responses and sport mutually exclusive?

Regardless, I will be glad when hockey is done, as the NHL playoffs should not shoulder up to the Canada Day holiday. This makes our CBC look terrible, as they drive an 'Everything Hockey' mentality to the summer (see Hockeyville, Hockey - A People's History, and the reliving of the Oiler's Playoff Dynasty for evidence), and then ride Pierre Trudeau, Anne of Green Gables, and Feature movies until the season starts again.

Still, I don't think I am out of the woods yet, as hockey is over just in time to tune into this!

Seven Sites I Can't Live Without in my Day

2006-06-01T11:16:00.000-07:00

I am tired of my Internet. Like a hamster in a wheel going nowhere, like a goldfish in a bowl swimming in circles, I visit the same sites over and over again throughout my day. Yes, the boundaries on the Internet are the boundaries of your imagination, blah, blah, blah. Still, I want the content to come to me sometimes, rather than having to seek it out.

And this got me to thinking: I know plenty of interesting people, and they must go to some interesting sites out there. I bet they could key me into some new content.

So, in the spirit of clothing swaps and rummage sales, I thought I would post my heavy rotation in hopes of picking up some fresh cyber-duds for the summer season.

What are the seven websites you can't do without in a day? Mine are:

CBC
The Globe and Mail
The Tyee
The Hollywood North Report
Go Fug Yourself (I am so ashamed!)
Google News - Canada
Comedy Central Motherload (the only place I can watch The Colbert Report)

Homage to My Dearly Departed Commuter Bike

2006-05-25T13:47:00.000-07:00

It was a sad Saturday the day I heard an unusual sound from under me. I was turning left off of Hillside onto Shelbourne, riding my trusty commuter bike. It was a Kuwahara Tri-Sport 105, a frameset inherited in 1994 from Graeme. It was thrown together with 105 parts from my first road bike - a 1990 Gardin with Biopace (long since removed). The Gardin met its end in Kingston in 1992 when an eager motorist turned left in front of me. In addition to the parts from the Gardin, I decked it out with 737 clipless pedals from my first Kona (1993) and fenders to survive the Victoria rain.

Through three wheelsets and drivetrains, the Kuwie carried me swiftly and safely from then until now, though winter training rides, commutes to work and school, drunken forays home from parties and pubs, and anything else I threw at it. I would do trials on it outside the Sub at Uvic, back when they had those large concrete steps out front. I ran it down trails many wouldn't consider walking down. Frankly, I kicked the sh*t out of it, and it would simply ask for more. More abuse, more curb-hopping, more slicing and dicing through traffic, please.

Until I heard that clunk. The back tire started rubbing, so I stopped to check it out. Everything seemed fine - I thought the wheel had dislodged from the dropouts, but it was still sitting true between the chainstays. Then I saw it - the seat tube completely disconnected from the bottom bracket. Not simply a crack, but a complete disconnect. I couldn't believe my eyes, and stood there, stunned.

I collected myself, gingerly got back on the bike, and rode home at a leisurely pace as the frame flexed and bowed below me. The ride kind of felt like that time I went with my cat to the vet on the day we put him down. Traffic was light (was there even traffic at all? - I couldn't be sure). I spun along, enjoying the farewell ride.

I have since disassembled the bike, and Straight Up Cycles has kindly recycled the old Kuwie. The other parts are long since obsolete, so no longer will I enjoy the old school downtube shifters, the optional friction shift, and my 7-speed cassette.

On the bright side, I have found a suitable used Canadian-made replacement - a 2004 Devinci Stockholm - to carry me to work and back. And to satisfy my landspeed craving, I broke down and ordered another Canadian bike - a custom-built Marinoni Leggero frameset.

Spring in BC

2006-05-16T09:26:00.000-07:00

There is no better place to return to after two months' tropical holiday than British Columbia as it sheds the grey coat of Winter in favour of Spring. As longer and sunnier days prevail (and the rest of Canada braces for another month or two of winter), BC truly starts to shine.

I have been quite lucky to already have travelled to the Okanagan twice in the past month. The last trip was by air, which meant I had an amazing view of the Coast Range and Nicola Valley on both flights. Peaks are still blinding white with snow, while the valleys are an array of green. Kelowna was hot this past weekend, with temperatures to 27 celcius; hoards of people streamed through downtown Kelowna on bike and foot with getting outside being their only goal. Some even braved a swim in the lake (not recommended - yet).

Victoria is another month ahead of Spring in the Okanagan. The daffodils have long since faded in Beacon Hill Park and the apple trees in our backyard hold onto a few remaining blossoms - you can even see the beginnings of fruit on our trees. Cyclists and runners have been out in shorts since early March, and most gardens have already been planted. Our rows of garden vegetables respond to the recent warm spell by growing at a fevered pace, and our neighbourhood fauna react in turn by keeping our very tasty spinach in check.

And as for me, when the warm spring days set in, my mind wanders to the endless possibilities for weekend adventure BC holds. This coming May long weekend is bursting with options: head to Penticton to ride the Ironman Canada Bike Course with Sarah; climb at Skaha or Squamish; camp and climb near Nanaimo; turn my attention to training for my upcoming half-marathon in Ucluelet; or simply relax in town and at home.

Reflections on Central America

2006-04-27T20:51:00.000-07:00

Well, most of you know by now that I am long since home. I have been trying to publish on the last of my travels, more for my benefit than anyone else's. Having completed my recent post about the Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve, I believe I am finally done.

It has been three weeks, and life here in Canada is pretty much back to normal. Work started right away in the very same building as I worked in before I left - I am two floors up, almost directly above my old desk. I walk into the same coffee shop in the morning, and have the same cafe options for lunch. The bus and bike routes are automatic, and I am falling back into the routines with ease. It is almost hard to believe that I took this photo of Misol-Ha not two months ago.

But in as many ways that the transition back to working is easy, I am having trouble really connecting to how luxuriously I am living. Clothing and belongings clutter my home and my head and I wonder why I have so much, having just lived comfortably out of a backpack for over ten weeks. And as comfortable and easy as the old routines are, they are also a source of discomfort as I look for ways to live more simply here at home.

I am also keenly aware of my desire to travel more. The difference is that I now know how easy it is to just set off in a direction with little or no regard to itinerary. South America over the winter months looks as attractive as it is expensive; the Canadian North may be a bit cold in the fall; and I have plenty of places to stay throughout Northern Europe, having met so many great people in my travels. The only restrictions are my own reservations about spending more time and money away from home, family, and friends.

Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve

2006-04-20T14:00:00.000-07:00

The final destination of note on my trip was the Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve (map). Most access the reserve (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) from the North, about ten kilometres from Tulum, but as you can see from the link to the map above, this is only scraping the surface of this huge protected area. Sian Ka'an covers just over 1.3 million acres, accounting for over ten percent of the Mexican state of Quintana Roo.

The side-by-side accommodations you see along the beach near Tulum end the moment you pass through the gates to the reserve. The Tulum Zona Hotelera gives way to a mostly pristine, 45km spit of land extending south to Punta Allen. The often narrow (as a stone's throw) spit is bordered by the Caribbean Sea to the East and salt water lagoons to the West.

We stayed at Cesiak, an eco-lodge dedicated to conservation and education programs both inside and outside the reserve. The 'tent' we stayed in was quite luxurious, with two double beds and a hammock on the patio overlooking the sea. I felt like I was on the set of M*A*S*H whenever I stepped into the green canvas doorway. The beach below was truly deserted, with maybe three or four others visible at any given time on the ten kilometres stretching to the North and South.

Something that could not be overlooked on the beaches was the incredible amount of garbage, mostly plastic, washed ashore. When you walk a beach near any town on the Yucatán, the beach is usually quite clean. But in Sian Ka'an, beaches are 'pristine' everywhere but in front of the lodging or residences (grandfathered from before the UNESCO designation). In this sense, 'pristine' means that you see them in an unaltered state, with whatever washes ashore staying on shore. It's both amazing and disturbing to see the amount of garbage we assume the oceans of the world can assume, and equally disturbing to see this garbage accumulate in those areas we 'protect'.

The kayak tour of the lagoon was nice, but not well organised. The 3PM tour left just after 4PM, and the kayaks used were surf kayaks - very stable, but not very quick. They are also about as easy to steer as Crazy Carpets once the wind comes up, and in the Yucatan the wind is always up. The guide Manuel was very good, full of facts about the ecosystem and the animals relying upon it.

The lagoon rarely exceeded one metre deep, and paddles occasionally dug into more mud than water. This made our seeing one or two american crocodiles pretty exciting. As you slid across the surface you would often disturb a stingray, who would take off from almost under your boat, leaving a cloud of murky water behind. The birds were nice too, but I'm really not too into birds.

My last few days on the Yucatán were memorable for all the wrong reasons, as Sian Ka'an is where I started coming down with something. I suspected malaria, as I exhibited 11 of the 13 symptoms I researched. Doctors ruled it out once I was back in Canada; it was pneumonia combined with a lung infection. Seeing as the nights at Sian Ka'an (at sea level) were the coldest I experienced on my entire trip, I was not too surprised I caught something.

My Sunglasses

2006-04-14T16:19:00.000-07:00

Have taken a beating on this trip. I lost half of the arm in Chiapas, but held them together with duct tape until I got tired of the flimsyness of the tape job. I think the right lens fell out for the first time in Honduras, which led to a bit more tape being applied. I noticed a crack fully through the frame of the left lens in Belize, and (you guessed it) applied more tape. In the end, this is what they looked like:

I hunted for some replacements in any touristy area, but all I found were Oakley knock-offs that felt brittle to the touch. These glasses survived until two days before my return flight. They now call Shelf Above Lockers, Dormitory 9, Poc Na Hostel, home. They are kept company by my green bath towel, spare light, and half-full bottle of body wash. If they wish to travel, they can visit the snorkeling gear I left in the book exchange room at same said hostel.

Tulum and Tulum Ruins

2006-04-12T13:50:00.000-07:00

Ahhh, Tulum. The place everyone raves about. Beautiful, long, and quiet beaches; rustic seaside cabanas for those on a budget; and a perfect place to sit back and while away your days in the shade of a palm tree.

Accommodation was at Zazil-Kin (formerly Don Armando's), in the Akumal cabana (320 pesos per night). This is a view from the Tulum ruins; Zazil-Kin is located just at the sandy point, about 600 metres from the ruins. Santa Fe had cabanas available next to Zazil-Kin for 150 pesos per night, but the cabanas there were a bit dodgy. The cabana at Zazil-Kin was a bit close to the bar, but otherwise quite comfy.

This was the only place where I used a mosquito net (provided), and it took some doing to keep it draped properly around the mattress (which was bigger than the concrete shelf for the mattress). I enjoyed using candles in the cabana once night fell - it added to the overall rustic aesthetic.

The beach and the overall atmosphere at Tulum was great. Dinner and pre-dinner drinks on the first night were enjoyed at Diamante K, about a 1.5km walk south along the beach. If I went again, I would stay at Diamante K, where the cabanas were the same price. The only setback to staying here would be the rocky point the resort sits on, which would mean a short walk to the sandy beach to the north.

While walking to the ruins at Tulum via the old access road (still used by people looking to park near the ruins for free), we saw this 1.5m long snake dart off the asphalt. Turns out it is a Green Vine Snake, and is relatively harmless. It still gave a bit of a shock, and it was a pleasure to see.

The Tulum ruins are definitely deficient as ruins go, but how can any archeological site fail to impress with this view?

The third day saw a return to Tulum proper. That afternoon we rented bikes across the street from The Weary Traveler and headed west of Tulum Crucero to find Cenote Calavera. Calavera felt just like a swimming hole, with a 4 metre drop from the limestone ledges surrounding the opening to the water level below. There were in fact three holes: two no bigger than one metre in diameter, known as the eyes; and one about 5 metres in diameter, known as the mouth. The challenge: to not only jump, but dive through the eyes into the blackness below. Knowing that the water is deep enough to dive safely is little consolation when looking down into a small black hole. I was up to the challenge, and managed to dive through both.

Just before leaving the cenotes, we witnessed a very strange thing. Green lights appeared in the cenote below, and bubbles broke the otherwise calm surface. Within the span of ten minutes, six German scuba divers emerged from the depths of the cenote, having followed underground caverns through the blackness below. It took them some work to get themselves and their gear up the metal ladder to ground level, but then they proceeded on their merry way, walking in full wetsuits through the jungle and out to the highway. A strange sight indeed.

The timing of the move to Tulum was good - the rain fell hard that night, and we weren't sure if the cabana would keep out the wet. We stayed at the Hotel Maya, just north of The Weary Traveler hostel, and the savings between here and Zazil-Kin just about covered dinner in town.

Puerto Morelos

2006-04-12T10:40:00.000-07:00

Puerto Morelos is a small coastal town about halfway between Cancún and Playa del Carmen. It costs only 17 pesos to get to the highway turnoff from either city, and another 20 pesos for the taxi from the highway to the town. The whole town can be seen on foot in about ten minutes, as it only covers an area of roughly two blocks by six blocks.

I was really looking forward to my stay here. It was recommended to me by a woman I met on the plane from LA, and the Lonely Planet guide made it sounds pleasant enough. Unfortunately, unless you have some way of getting on the ocean, there is little to do here. Furthermore, if you are on a budget, Puerto Morelos is not the place for you. The Posada del Amor seemed like the budget accommodation of choice, but a basic room with intermittent water cost 420 pesos. One night was enough for me.

Still, there are a couple of reasons to visit Puerto Morelos, if only for the day. One of them is Café Amancia, located on the southwest corner of the plaza. This place serves very good iced espresso drinks. A second reason to stop is Hola Asia, which served an eclectic but outstanding mix of Asian dishes.

So, visit Puerto Morelos, but only for a meal and a coffee. Then carry on to better locales, like Tulum.

Isla Holbox

2006-04-06T20:58:00.000-07:00

I managed to get to Holbox in one piece, and thankfully found an Internet Cafe / Money Exchange to burn abother traveller's cheque. I still made myself eat the classic cold dinner* before cashing in.

Cam's Classic Cold Dinner:

Tortillas (preferably corn)
Can of Refried Black Beans
Tomato
Avocado
Lime

Cut tomato and lime. Squish avocado as much as possible without breaking skin. Open can of beans, shaping top of can into a scoop. Lay tortillas out on plate or lap. Scoop refried beans onto tortillas. Add tomato. Cut opening in avocado near the stem and squeeze out fresh guacamole. Add squeeze of lime. Enjoy.

*Can also pass as breakfast and lunch.

Isla Holbox is beautiful, don't get me wrong. Just don't go to the beach, where you will be swarmed by tiny sand flies. I hear the cure is baby oil all over your exposed bits - the flies drown in the oil, leaving you with the task of wiping the black mass off your person every few minutes. I wasn't too keen on this approach - not keen on coating myself in oil before heading out into the sun, or wearing the bug coat.

And if the flies aren't enough, don't forget mosquito hour (or two), when the bugs go absolutely nutbars for human blood. Moscos here can land on you in a 50km/h wind, making their Canadian counterparts look like pansies.

What you do find on Holbox after surviving the bugs may well be worth the visit. The eight kilometres of beach on the north side of town will seem to be yours alone. Locals and tourists (mostly Italian) are laid back and friendly in a style similar to Caye Caulker. Hotels are cheap (camping was still closed due to hurricane damage when I was there), and there is an occasional free flop to be found.

On arriving and departing, take it easy and wait for the slow ferry. It costs only ten pesos (versus fourty for other boats), and the pod of dolphins that hangs out midway between the docks will often play in the carve of the slower ferry.

A Bit Behind

2006-04-04T11:15:00.000-07:00

I have fallen a bit behind on my postings, after getting wrapped up in my holiday time and then getting quite sick (blood tests come back today). I will try to get my Isla Holbox post up today.

Valladolid, Chichén Itzá, Cenotes

2006-03-26T16:05:00.000-08:00

After seeing my karaoke pals off in Cancún, I met up with Anne at the main bus terminal. We made plans at Poc-Na to meet and travel to Valladolid, and take in the ruins at Chichén Itzá.

Second-class bus travel in México is better than a Greyhound milk run, with departures to where you want to go often five minutes after you buy your ticket. Still, travel tends to be a little bit slower - we covered the 180km from Cancún to Valladolid in just under three hours.

Valladolid is a very fine example of a typical small Mexican city. The sidewalks are narrow, the streets are filled with the sights and sounds of Mexican daily life, and most everything revolves around the central square. Shirts and shoes block the sidewalk for a few feet, then you need to step around a Mayan woman selling fruit, and then duck under the smoke billowing from the roastery next door.

Valladolid Hostel overlooks La Candelaria, which was a second square a few blocks away from the main plaza. It was one of the finest hostels I have stayed in, and the quiet garden was a welcome change from Poc-Na.

We rose early the next morning to get to Chichén Itzá, about 35 minutes East of Valladolid. Definitely the most impressive ruins I have seen on this trip, though Uxmal was supposed to be the most important Mayan city while Chichén Itzá was built up by the Toltecs some three centuries later. Both Anne and I were in a strange mood when we were there, so we kind of blazed through the site. The restaurant had incredibly overpriced food, so we poked around and found the non-descript taco stand well off the tourist track at the far end of the staff parking lot.

We rented bikes the next day and headed out to two cenotes just east of town. Cenotes are freshwater pools found in the limestone bedrock that covers the entire Yucatán Peninsula. Some are more like caves, while others are best described as swimming holes. The two cenotes we went to were very much caves, though you could swim in both. I chose to swim in the second, and the feeling of swimming in cold freshwater was a refreshing change to the warm Caribbean.

We couldn't really dilly-dally at the cenotes, though. I had found a way to make it to Isla Holbox, and needed to catch a bus at 1:00PM that day. I made it to the bus station with just enough time to grab a ticket to Chiquilá, and just enough money to buy the ticket (and the ferry to Holbox).

Isla Mujeres, Part Two

2006-03-18T15:11:00.000-08:00

My return to Isla Mujeres was part of the plan even before I extended my trip to the 29th of March. I also made plans to meet Cindy (NED) here shortly after hooking up with Pam & Co. in Playa. I was happy to return, as the day spent here earlier was far too short to appreciate the island.

It is easy to forget that Isla Mujeres is only a 30-minute ride from Cancún. The island is far more relaxed than places on the mainland coast, and has more of a small-town feel. And the town is small - in fact, you can circle the whole island in under an hour. One place that is not so small, however, is Poc-Na Hostel. This hostel is teeming with travellers from across the globe, all of whom are either starting or finishing their travels. Poc-Na has its own bar and restaurant, which fills with people and their stories about thirty minutes after sunset.

I was one of about five travellers who succumbed to what I now call Manañitis; symptoms include staying out late, not packing your bag, and lounging in hammocks well past check-out time. It was because of the people I met at Poc-Na that my intended three days on Isla Mujeres turned into five. It is amazing how quickly you can become close friends with people halfway around the world.

I met Kathryn (London), Kathy (GER), and Victoria (Wales) on the night I won the pool tournament. The three of them met on a GAP adventure, and I came to their table trying to give away my meat dinner as Victoria and Kathy were working out the type of apartment they wanted to find together in Cologne. Over the next few days, we spent hours moving between hammocks and picnic tables, stayed up far too late, and became close by imagining and filling out top-5, top-10, and top-20 lists.

The island spell broke when I returned to Cancún with them, wanting to both move on and catch one more night with them before we all went our separate ways. I was rewarded with a great dinner in the park and karaoke. Notable songs included Fernando, I Will Survive, and Livin' On A Prayer (Note: Bohemian Rhapsody should never be attempted on only one microphone). I was very sad to see us all part ways in Cancún not three days later, but we exchanged emails and hopefully will keep in touch.

Resort Review - RIU Playacar

2006-03-11T12:41:00.000-08:00

Three days of resort life left me full for two days afterwards. I somehow justified my double-dinners by pointing to my active days ('Walking on sand is so hard'). I piled my plate high with salads and pastas on the first night, but moved on to more traditional Mexican food thereafter. Pancakes, fruit, and fresh orange juice rounded out the breakfasts.

Self-serve espresso machines helped counter the effects of the nights before. The drinks from the bar were consistently weak (mojitos excepted). This prompted Pam and Alex to innovate with a technique called 'fortification':

1) Drain excess mix from top of drink into bathroom sink (keep ice);
2) 'Fortify' drink with the room's complimentary wet bar, located to the left of sink.

This approach worked really well, but led to problems as I tried to find my way back to the Hostel El Palomar on the first night.

The Mambo Cafe was a great place for dancing the night away. I tagged along with resort staff just off-shift, and managed to land some basic salsa steps with Brenda's (resort activity coordinator) help. The ten-piece live band also helped, for even if I wasn't dancing well, I could not help but try. Sonja noted my 5AM return from the Mambo Cafe, and decided to rub it in with a 7AM wake-up call.

Of all the activities Sonja enjoyed on our day together, swimming ranked highest. Mention the word 'swim' to her and she smiles wide and breaks into some wild James Brown hand movements. The hardest part of my day was trying to balance Sonja's desire to play with the reality of her being too cold to stay in the water. But, she braved the cold as we blew bubbles, 'popped' the the ball from underwater, splashed me, and pushed me over, etc. We must have spent four hours of the day in the pool.

Still, like all good things, the resort time had to end. It turned the corner from good to bad on the final day, when I realised I was full, fully rested, and tired all at the same time. So, I packed my things, said my goodbyes, and headed off for my second stint at Isla Mujeres. When I arrived, it felt good to make my own bed, stuff my belongings in a locker, and find some fruit for lunch.

Even if I was still full.

Playa Del Carmen

2006-03-01T10:18:00.000-08:00

Unfortunately, I left Ambergris Caye almost as soon as I got there. Ambergris has plenty to offer, but I was pushed on both by the rain that fell through the day and the prospect of playing with family in Playa Del Carmen. So, I jumped on an island hopper plane and landed in Corozal in the early afternoon. I met two Brits on the plane who were going straight to the Mexican border by shuttle, then hiring a taxi for the 300km ride to Playa. We split the fares, which saved over two hours and only added about $15 to my travel costs.

I met two women from OK Centre at the border, and they were so nice! We joked about how people from the Okanagan have a bit of a Fargo accent, which was corroborated on both of our trips by people asking if we were from Minnesota. They were destined for Cancún, and I wish I could have joined them, to share travel stories. Instead, it was me and the two Brits careening down the highway at 120 in a Hyundai. They weren't all that chatty, because one had a birthday the night before and both were a bit green around the gills.

I treated myself to a nice hotel here in Playa ($45USD), mostly because I could not find the hostel! Then I found a phone and called Alex, and I arranged to stop by the resort. After dinner (along with two Coronas and four margaritas), I was sweet-talking my way past the front desk of Riu Playacar. Four 'fortified' (made double-strength by the complimentary wet bar in the room) pina coladas later, it was 3:30AM. I hopped off the balcony, and flagged a taxi back home. Despite the nice hotel, the walls still spun when I flopped on the bed. Seems like no matter how much you spend, you can't buy your way out of the spins.

Thunderstorms threatened to spoil the finale of Carnaval last night, but held off until today. The Carnaval parade passed right by the hostel last night (my second night here), so we had a great view of the procession filled with costumes and dancing. I met a couple of other travellers for dinner and drinks, and then we headed over to catch the open-air concert in the city square.

The rain is now coming down in sheets here in Playa Del Carmen, with about an inch of water covering the main shopping area of 5th Street. People are running for cover in all directions, and the café I am sitting in is receiving a bit of flooding! Cheers come from the bar across the street whenever the intensity of the rain increases. I am holed up here, waiting for it to abate so I can collect my bag from the hostel and possibly spend a few days with Pam, Alex, and Sonja at the resort.

For Those Of You Into Lists...

2006-02-27T10:26:00.000-08:00

Check out and provide your own Freebie Five list at The Hollywood North Report. My picks, like I would ever feel the need to use them, are:

5) Eva Mendes
4) Catriona LeMay Doan
3) Beckie Scott
2) Kiera Knightley
1) Salma Hayek

*Honourable Mention: Hilary Swank.

And yours?

Caye Caulker - Rained Out

2006-02-27T08:36:00.000-08:00

I had intended on kayaking around the North End of Caulker today, but bad weather has set in. I was actually rained on in bed overnight, the wind bringing rain into my room sideways. So, this is now a travel day, which may result in me being in Mexico by evening.

The water 'taxi' to San Pedro this morning was no taxi at all, with three 200hp engines pushing us along at about 55km/h. So fast, in fact, that the rain stung the face. About a dozen passengers, including me, huddled under tarps as we sped to Ambergris Caye. Water was actually coming right through the tarp due to our speed.

San Pedro, Ambergris Caye, is much busier than Caye Caulker. The first evidence of this is that it actually has cars, where the largest vehicle I saw on Caulker was the John Deere tractor used to deliver sodas and Belikin to restaurants and bars. That said, it is only busy in Belize terms, with Nelson or Revelstoke, BC looking like bustling cities in comparison (even on powder days). People outside are stepping over and sometimes in rain puddles that collect on the sandy street. Locals are bundled up in jackets and full rain gear, while tourists are still sporting the shirt and shorts look.

Reflections on Roatán

2006-02-27T07:39:00.000-08:00

I haven't really expanded on Roatán beyond diving options (or, in my case, the lack thereof). So, after spending just over one week there I thought I would give you a quick review of the West End and area.

In general, you don't really feel like you are in Honduras when you are on Roatán. The islands have a mostly English (mostly pirate) history, and are predominantly English-speaking. I was able to watch plenty of Olympic hockey, as games were aligned perfectly with siestas at the hottest parts of the day.

There are now two ATM's in the West End, so you don't need to show up with a fat wallet. The BAC is easy to find, and the second is in Coconut Tree Grocery. Neither are accessible after 9PM.

Best Swimming: In the West End, the double-dock on Half Moon Bay is best (see photo at left). There are also good spots on the beach between West Bay and West End. If you want to swim in West Bay, the beautiful 4km walk takes under an hour. I spent most of my time near the rocks at the far end of the West Bay beach, because it tends to be a bit less crowded with the resort-goers.

Note that the walk to West End (shown here) is not as unsafe as Lonely Planet makes it out to be - I met women who walk it daily for exercise, on their own.

Best Snorkeling: The rocks on the west side of Half Moon Bay in the West End. West Bay is supposedly better, but I saw more types and number of aquatic life in Half Moon Bay. If you are a good swimmer, head beyond the shallows and into deeper water off Lighthouse Point - this is where I saw a turtle and some puffer fish. Keep your eye on the boats, and note that the west side of Lighthouse is quite shallow. Get your gear from Native Sons - for L95, you are in (mostly) new gear for the entire day.

Best Espresso: The restaurant at West End Divers and the one immediately to its right have the best espresso, but the latter is half the price (L30 versus L15). And while you are sipping on cheaper espresso, you can enjoy a much nicer view from the higher patio.

Best Accommodation: Chilli's Place. I stayed at Milka's, and it was a great deal. Still, I could have paid L40 (three bucks) more per night and enjoyed the wood cabins, numerous hammocks, and garden atmosphere at Chilli's. Chilli's shared kitchens are also equipped with more and better kitchen wares, while Milka's was terrible; I could have saved the higher room rate with better cooking options. The rooster factor at Milka's is also a concern, moreso if you sleep lightly.

Best Pub: Sundowners, but it is only open to 10PM. Note that I am not basing my decision on the fact it is Canadian-Owned. After 10, head for the Purple Turtle.

Best Dive Shop: Native Sons. There is a reason why they are so busy. All divers I spoke to raved about them.

Best Beer: Salvavida, although the Port Royal Export label almost reads Port Royal 'EH-Port'.

Into Belize - Barely

2006-02-24T14:52:00.000-08:00

I had to use up all of my karma points for this holiday to get to Belize. This i because I went to the airport yesterday and bought a ticket for a Friday, 7AM flight from Roatan to Belize City. Then I proceeded to drink away my Thursday evening, downing vodka-cranberries until the wee hours. I didn't feel too bad, as Andy and Mike (Washington State) were along for the ride, and we agreed to split the cab to the airport the next morning. Cathy was up when I got home, and she and Michael (Vermont) were slated to be up at the same time as me to catch the ferry to La Ceiba.

I went to bed spinning at 3:30AM (we closed every place in the West End), and missed my 5AM alarm. Cathy and Michael missed theirs as well. My eyes opened at 7AM, and I was still kind of inebriated. Defeated, I lay back down for a while, to 'think'.

But I had to get off the island (this was my second day trying) as I would not be able to stand another two or three days in the West End. I vowed to go to the airport and get as far as I could today (likely San Pedro Sula). When I arrived at 7:45, the flight to Belize was still on the ground - classic Carribean time! I raced through customs, and found Mike and Andy stretched across the seating at the departure gate.

The flight - with me on it - left Roatan at 9AM. We landed in Belize City before 11:00AM, right before a connecting flight to Caye Caulker. I made the decision between Glover's Atoll and Caulker at the ticket counter.

So now, here I sit in my beachfront room at the Miramar Hotel (12USD per night), enjoying the sun setting on another beautiful Carribean afternoon. I didn't think I would find a place More laid back than Roatan, but I definitely have. The photo at left is the airport, and everyone here rides fat-tire cruiser bikes. They take their relaxation seriously here.

No Diving for Cam

2006-02-20T12:47:00.000-08:00

I put two and two together the moment our prospective instructor handed us the medical checklist for diving. I didn't even have to read the checklist - I knew Pneumothorax would be on there. Sure enough, it was fourth on the list. This killed my hopes for getting my PADI certification here on Roatán, or anywhere for that matter.

A pneumothorax is a collapsed lung. I suffered one about four years ago, when my right lung half-collapsed. Needless to say, the rest of the run that day did not go so well. Actually, in the weeks following, I was unable to climb a flight of stairs in under a minute.

I could find a doctor on the island, and I could get clearance I suppose, but a bit of research on the Internet laid out some very dire consequences of diving with a risk of recurrence. So now, I am sitting across from one of about twenty dive docks, sipping on a coffee, watching boatload after boatload of people cart wetsuits, tanks, and gear across the street and launch into another day's adventures. Diving is what you do here - to such an extent that I can see four buoys, each marking a world-class dive site not 250m offshore.

On the bright side, snorkeling here is just as good. I was out this morning to swim (and salt water buoyancy makes you feel like the Thorpedo), and I saw hundreds of fish, and even a couple of squid. I am also going to meet up with Sofie from Denmark, who I met on the San Pedro hike. She has quite a fear of fish, so there is at least one more person on the island who isn't diving.

Antigua - Stalled

2006-02-17T14:16:00.000-08:00

A late start in Antigua combined with some terrible advice from a bus driver on a bus station that did not exist has resulted in me spending another night in Antigua. As a result, I have scrapped my plans for El Salvador. But, I need to get out of Antigua - it has enough tourist comforts to make you stay, but does not have anything worth staying more than three days for.

I decided that the best move would be to get out of the Guatemala highlands and back to the Caribbean coast as soon as possible. I booked myself on a 4AM shuttle bus to the Guat-Honduras border, with a connecting bus to the Caribbean coastal city of La Ceiba, Honduras. 14 hours and three buses later, I have arrived.

Night was falling once I arrived, and I missed my prospective hotel by a block. I stopped and asked for directions, and this is when I met William, who turned into my unsolicited guide for the next 24 hours. As I camped in my room decompressing from the long trip, William decided to stop by the lobby twice, and ask for me. At one point he asked to stay with me in my room (not in the friendly way, mind you). I had the pleasure of meeting up with him this morning while running errands, and he 'showed' me the city. I left him in the hotel lobby again, but not before contributing 40 lempira ($3CDN) to his new shoes fund.

The Honduran currency is lempira, which runs at 18.5 to the US dollar. This makes banking particularly hard - I hesitate to put 2,000 of anything in my wallet. This money will not go far in Roatán, where I am headed today. Roatán goods are double the price on the mainland. Most backpackers head to Utila because it is cheaper to get there and stay there, but I have a chance to share costs on Roatán with the Danish women I climbed San Pedro with.

The Honduras Bay Islands lie close to the second longest barrier reef on the planet. They also boast some of the best and cheapest scuba diving on the planet, with 2-dive afternoons costing just under $40CDN, and dive certifications (including 6 dives) for just over $250CDN. I am looking forward to completing my scuba diving certification there - sure beats the Okanagan Lake version. Also, I am really keen on getting some swimming in, so my timing for Roatán could not be better.

Antigua, the Return

2006-02-12T09:55:00.000-08:00

The shuttle back from Monterrico was 20q more than the ride down, and took less than half the time. I am staying at Jungle Party Hostel, but it seems a bit of a rip-off, with no kitchen and some odd rules for 60q per night. There are no less than ten Canadians here tonight, all from BC.

I am hoping to finalise my trip to Tacuba, El Salvador today, which is made difficult by my wanting to skip Guatemala City entirely.

Monterrico - Pacific Coast

2006-02-12T09:41:00.000-08:00

The chicken bus ride to Monterrico was epic, but 3 chicken buses, a passenger ferry, 5.5 hours, and 30 quetzals later I was on the Pacific Coast. Getting there was the reward - dark sand beaches, warm Pacific water, a laid-back feel, and good people awaited. I made two quick friends right off the bus, and was in the water within 30 minutes.

After sunset, everyone camped out at Johnny's Place - the place in Monterrico. The appeal is huge, as Johnny's has hammocks to swing in, a beachside bar, and a come-and-go-when-you-please approach to both clients and non-clients.

The mangrove tour the next morning was another early- morning test, starting at 5:30AM. The mangroves were filled with birds, a four-eyed species of fish that skips across the water rather than swims, and amazing foliage, and we enjoyed a remarkable view of the volcanos at Antigua during the sunrise. I was hoping to see a bit more varied wildlife, like caiman (small corcodile) and turtles, but there numbers are few. I did stroll through the Tortugaria, a local refuge for freshwater and saltwater turtles, iguanas, and caiman to compensate (8q).

The day was spent almost exclusively at Johnny's, with a brother-sister duo from BC. Mark is a park ranger / planting supervisor somewhat stationed in the Slocan area, and Nicole works for a student union (Langara, maybe) in Vancouver. Evidence that it is a small world: Mark went on a Neil Young-inspired road trip with Kevin Chong, who turned it into the book Neil Young Nation, who had my sister as an editor. Pam's copy of the book, with a note of thanks from Mark's friend Kevin, sits half-read on my bedside table.

Shuttle Drivers

2006-02-12T09:31:00.000-08:00

For the most part, shuttle vans are a very fast, safe, and cost-effective way to travel in Guatemala. They are often targeted at night (as some assume more wealthy people take shuttle vans), but are generally fine during the day. They are also everywhere, and go just about everywhere to boot.

However, if you are travelling to Antigua from Panajachel, do
NOT take the 4PM shuttle if the driver is very tall, somewhat skinny, and has short, spiky hair. I have never driven with such a dangerous driver, with so little regard for himself, his passengers, or others on the road. He drives an older, red passenger van, which we learned (the hard way) had no power for passing other cars and buses in the face of oncoming traffic. Despite the language barriers, all passengers managed to convey their disgust at his driving to the travel agency once we arrived in Antigua.

Volcán San Pedro

2006-02-12T09:10:00.000-08:00

I spent another night not sleeping for fear of sleeping through my alarm. This hike left at 6AM, and was about the same elevation gain as Santa Maria. It was nice to walk right from town - only 100m from the dock - up through the town's cobblestone streets. Four of us were guided up the hike by Manuel: two Danish women, a Scot, and myself. Before long, the streets gave way to dirt roads, and the dirt roads to paths weaving through small homesteads.

Volcán San Pedro itself is quite a large park, and the trailhead began at a very new interpretive centre about 1km from town. The park protects the cloud forest that covers the slopes of San Pedro, and the difference between Santa Maria and San Pedro is quickly apparent in the volume and diversity of foliage. Stepping off the trail would result in your feet being consumed by the lush ground. Some slopes have coffee and corn farms that were grandfathered when the park was created, and they are sustainably run.

The hike turned out to be just as long as Santa Maria, and I was at the summit around 9AM. The view was not as spectacular as Santa Maria's (trees cover most of the top of San Pedro), but the view down to the lake and back to Santa Maria were enough for me.

From atop the summit, the geography of Atitlán is amazing to behold. The lake - 18km at its widest - sits in the bottom of a huge collapsed caldera. The rim of the caldera is almost 500m higher than the lake level, and the caldera is another 1.3km deep when you include the depth of the lake. Other volcano summits, including those that surround Antigua, can be seen to the North and South of San Pedro.

I had to hustle half of the descent, because I had stashed my bag at the guide office and it was closing at 1:30. One of the Danish women was having trouble on the way down, but we had enough time to exchange email addresses so we could possibly hook up in Honduras. I picked up the bag with enough time for a final swim in Lago de Atitlán, before catching the return boat back to Panajachel and an afternoon shuttle to Antigua.

Lago de Atitlán - Panajachel and San Pedro

2006-02-12T08:55:00.000-08:00

I am presently recovering from the classic traveller's stomach bug here in San Pedro. Yesterday was a write-off, more or less, despite walking over to the Panajachel Nature Reserve. The 1.5km walk is a scorcher at mid-day, feeling just like the walk out to Paul's Tomb on Knox Mountain.

The 45 quetzal entry got me in to see the reserve's main attraction - a group of about 8 endangered spider monkeys. There are a few other animals and a butterfly hatchery, but the place is geared to the monos.

Panajachel itself is full of hippie ex-pats, which allows the town to live up to its nickname of Gringotenango. I was able to have an espresso and watch some of the Superbowl at a pub here. Most people who come to Atitlán get through Pana as fast as possible, and now I know why. Because I was under the weather, I opted for two nights here. Later the next morning I jumped on a lancha to get to San Pedro, and have already scheduled the second volcano hike. Here's hoping I am sufficiently recovered to go.

The Chicken Bus

2006-02-05T19:39:00.000-08:00

I am no longer a chicken bus virgin, as I had my first trip on one today.

What is a chicken bus, you ask? Well, the first thing you need to know is that Guatemala is where old US and CDN school buses go when they die. And trust me, they go to heaven! Just look:

Before

After

I broke some common-sense chicken bus guidelines on my first trip. The first was not having a bag small enough that you could take on the bus with you. The second was not removing all (any, actually) items from the bag before it was placed on the roof. To compensate, I watched the loading and unloading of passengers and goods like a hawk. I concluded that the chicken bus is transportation's version of poetry in motion, with the bus barely stopping when picking up passengers, and the baggage and luggage handler securing loads to the roof rack while the bus carrens down the winding Guatemalan highway. When finished, the baggage guy climbs down one of two ladders on the back of the bus, enters through the rear emergency exit, and then recalls who's paid and who's not and collects back to front.

The 2.5 hour bus ride to Panajachel cost me 20 quetzals - about $3CDN. These incredibly low rates are entirely based on cheap labour - the driver I chatted with from the border to Xela described his 12-14 hour day for which he is paid just under $10CDN. Everything here is inexpensive - I just booked into a hotel with hot showers here in Pana for 50 quetzals, which is under $8CDN.

I have no photo of my first chicken bus, because my camera was securely (and safely, it turned out) strapped to the roof of the bus.

Volcán Santa Maria

2006-02-05T19:30:00.000-08:00

Shaun has a cold, and his resulting snoring helped keep me up most of the night. The balance of the sleeplessness was fearing sleeping through the 5AM alarm I set, because Chilli Tours was picking us up at 5:30 to start the hike by 6AM.

Xela sits at 2335m above sea level, and the summit of Santa Maria is 3770m. The relentless, increasingly difficult hike to the top took only 2 hours and 45 minutes. All claims that Ben and I had to mountaineering macho were dashed when we ended up just barely keeping ahead of a group of Mayan women and girls en route to the summit as well. The difference was, these women were completing the same ascent in full-length dresses and open-heeled shoes. Santa Maria is a sacred place to the locals, and they often ascend early in the morning to pray and sometimes offer sacrifices.

We started under and ascended through cloud, but the skies cleared by the time we reached the summit. Once on top, we quickly found a seat to the West of the summit, overlooking another active volcano nearby. 1,000 metres higher, Santa Maria afforded a good view of the active crater, which lets off a blast once or twice per hour. We could make out the volcanoes surrounding Atitlán to the South. While I would not have said so at the top, I get the feeling that hiking one of them is the next to-do on my list.

Quetzaltenango, Guatemala

2006-02-05T19:10:00.000-08:00

When I first got to Quetzaltenango (Xela), I wasn't very impressed with it. A mist that often rolls in from the Pacific obscures the view of the surrounding hillsides and Volcán Santa Maria. The town itself is dusty, polluted, and very much broken down - definitely a step down from México, whose political stability and resource wealth separates it from its neighbour to the South. To put it in context, Guatemala is still reeling from decades of violence, despite 2006 being the tenth anniversary of the country's peace accord. Those I have spoken to confirm continued widespread corruption and violence in Guatemala today.

So, when I got here , I really didn't like it much. I am going to chalk this up to a long travel day, because after a full day Xela is growing on me. The locals are very friendly and helpful, and are very patient with my broken Spanish. The tight and chaotic streets and markets are flush with colour during the day, and the place is packed with international travellers taking advantage of Xela's exceptional(ly cheap) Spanish language schools.

Despite the better impression, I still won't stay here long. It is hard to breathe here. Most cars and trucks, and all but a select few buses exhale plumes of smoke in shades of black and blue. Those that burn cleanly kick up an immense amount of dust as they rumble by on the cobblestone streets.

I missed the 3-day hike from Xela to Lago de Atitlán by an hour. The silver lining to this was that eleven others were booked on the hike. Instead, I pulled together a tour to Fuentes Georginas, a natural spring just outside of Xela. Seeing as the city was without running water this morning (water system upgrades have meant some week-long droughts for the city), the springs were a great addition to the day. We booked a hike up Volcán Santa Maria the next morning with ChilliTours - the same company that took us to the springs. We should be down be 1PM, which provides enough time for me to get to Panajachel before nightfall tomorrow.

Sumidero Canyon

2006-02-05T18:46:00.000-08:00

I missed the guided trip to Sumidero Canyon because I did not book the day before. However, an employee at the hostel gave me the directions for getting there. I walked down to the highway to catch a colectivo, which is a passenger van that goes whenever it fills. I then got dropped an hour later at Cahuare, and walked the 500m down to the dock. This cost me 35 pesos.

I waited on the dock for about an hour, until the colectivo boat was also full. 95 pesos got me a tour of the 5+ kilometre-long canyon, with limestone walls towering over one kilometre above the water line. Monkeys, herons, and an alligator were the extent of the wildlife, but I was most taken by the canyon walls. Sumidero is definitely a hotspot on the Mexican climbing scene, and there are even some deep water soloing opportunities here - if you don't mind alligators, that is.

I chatted up a guide while we were waiting on the dock, and I managed to catch a ride back with him and two Australians on a full tour of the region. In exchange, I paid the highway toll and acted as translator as the guide explained some of the culture and practices of the Chiapas Mayans. Back in San Cristobal, I arranged my passage to Guatemala the next day, and hooked into a bunch of people going for drinks at one of the reggae bars in town.

So, my last post from San Cristobal - incomplete without an obligatory cathedral photo.

Crossing the Border into Guatemala

2006-02-03T17:23:00.000-08:00

The plains of Mexico gave way to steep mountainsides right at the Guatemalan border, the geography reflecting the move from North to Central America. I have exited Mexico before on the US side, and it was nothing like this! Imagine a tight, steep, two lane alleyway filled with travellers, money exchangers, three-wheeled taxis, shuttlebuses, and fruit and craft stalls - this was my first taste of Guatemala. In all the commotion, me and my fellow travellers needed to find our way out of Mexican immigration, across the border, through the hallway that was Guatemala Immigration, and onto a second shuttle awaiting on the other side. Despite the inconsistent guidance and general commotion, it was a great experience; there is a satisfaction in crossing borders on foot.

So this is my first time off the continent since my Students Abroad tour over twenty years ago. Granted, I like my continent, and it's big, and there are plenty of places I haven't seen yet (like all of Québec, save Hull). Still, I wouldn't trade the experience of entering and driving into Quetzaltenango (or Xela) for anything. I sat up front with the driver of the Toyota shuttle van, working on my Spanish and taking in the scenery. I have been forcing myself to strike up conversation with the locals, and this has been invaluable. This experience really helped when the busload of other travellers - all destined for Spanish language schools in Guatemala - turned to me to get them all through the border!

All but two of the passengers were bound for Xela, a dusty city about the size of Kelowna, renowned for its cheap but effective Spanish schools. $125USD gets you twenty hours of one-on-one conversation coaching as well as one week of homestay. I hooked up with two of them - Laura (UK) and Shaun (NZ) to find a place to crash after the long day. It took some doing (Xela is currently overrun by Dutch people looking to learn Spanish), but we found a basic room for about $6CDN each, and then headed for an authentic Mayan dinner. Naturally, beers at the very cool, very European Salón Tecún followed.

San Cristóbal de las Casas

2006-02-02T16:47:00.000-08:00

I was up far too early this morning in Palenque, trying to figure out if what I was hearing were weary roosters or their drunken imitators headinghome after a night out. It was 5AM, but I stayed in bed until about 6, at which point I got my stuff together and headed for the bus to San Cristóbal de las Casas.

The bus rides provided amazing views as we wove through mountain passes above 2300 metres. At one crest, the dense foliage broke into grasslands and pine - a sure sign of the Pacific rainshadow that stretches from the Okanagan to here. I remember Derek and I drove through the same on our way down to Colima way back when.

San Cristóbal itself is a city of about 130,000 people sitting in the high sierra. The town has a very colonial feel, despite being the centre of both Mayan and Zapatista resistance movements against the powers that be. Extending fiveblocks in either direction from the plaza is another cobblestone pedestrian walkway, filled with coffee shops, restaurants, and general knick-knacks. All other streets are cobblestone as well. The daily market at the top of town is a vegetarian heaven, and a Mayan market spills onto the street just above the plaza. One notable stall is the one selling various Zapatista items.

The backpackers hostel is nice, if noisy. If you like the hostel nightlife, you'd like it. Two British guys - one named Felix - displayed their talents by drinking 4 litres of beer each and leaving the kitchen an absolute mess. The place is definitely well-equipped (internet is free), but a cold night's sleep left me disappointed when they didn't deliver on the hot showers they advertised. Still, at 50 pesos per night, I am not compaining. The cats are nice too.

I just downed another very weak coffee - four days in a row now - and this was even from a local roastery. The streak continues. Off to Cañon del Sumidero today - another post and photos (finally tracked down a cord) to follow.

On The Bright Side...

2006-02-01T14:23:00.000-08:00

As I slept on the bus to Palenque, someone tried to relieve me of a few valuables. They cut a small hole in the bottom of my carry-on while I was sound asleep with it in my lap, but all they encountered was a water bottle and my breakfast. Another traveler had her camera stolen, and a young Mexican girl (maybe 14) had belongings stolen as well. On the bright side, this is the precise reason I packed duct tape, and it is now shoring up my leaky pack.

Some travel tips for those moving around by bus in Mexico:

1) Daytime or awake-time buses only;
2) If you are breaking #1, place valuables in checked baggage, where it is checked at the bus. ADO (the primary 1st class bus service) generally has it together when it comes to securing luggage;
3) Carry duct tape!

More disappointing than the hole in my bag was my arrival in Palenque. If you are coming out this way, El Panchán, within walking distance of the ruins, is a better bet. Pälenque is a city built on shuttling people to and from the nearby ruins and waterfalls. I arrived too late to do the complete tour, so I opted for the falls tour leaving at noon.

The first stop was Misol-Ha, 35m in height with a beautiful pool and a jungle setting. Not too bad for my first taste of the jungle.

As we wound through the mountainous, dense jungle, we passed a sign reading 'You are now entering Zapatista Territory...'; although the days of highway banditry in the area are long since past, the push for indigenous title and autonomy still persists.

The next stop was three hours in Agua Azul, which came complete with a bunch of RV'ers and a community of about 500 people. The falls themselves are incredible, carving hundreds of pools into the limestone underneath. I headed up the stone walkway until it became a path, and about 1/2 a kilometre later found a pool to myself.

Our tour driver Victor drove the Ford shuttle van to the pools like a saint, but the same could not be said for the return trip. I think he was trying to make up the time he lost, as we waited with some passengers for a connecting southbound bus to San Cristobal. I noted that he made a bit on the side, charging the six getting on the bus 110 pesos each before the bus arrived, but paying the bus driver 70 once the passengers had boarded. I just wish he would have spread the love!

Onto San Cristóbal tomorrow, where I hope to pass a day or two before heading into Guatemala.

Whiling Away a Sunday in Mérida

2006-01-29T20:45:00.000-08:00

It´s 5:15PM, and the traditional dance display has just started on one of the four streets that surround Mérida´s main plaza (de la Revolución). Every Sunday is 'Domingo en Mérida', and about twelve blocks of the downtown core are handed over to the people for singing, dancing, eating, and relaxing. Artisans and vendors set up shop in all corners, selling everything from México's finest amacas to the locally-made Guayacabas - shirts often traditionally hand sewn from a cactus-like plant. At any given point today, there have been over 5,000 people here in the plaza, enjoying the sights, sounds, and tastes of the Yucatán.

Mérida is the capital of the state of Yucatán, and as such is a cultural and historical landmark. The oldest cathedral in North America overlooks the Plaza from the East, and tucked in beside is the open-air Museo MACAY, whose exhibition space is only ever filled with Yucatecan artists. Four blocks to the North is the Paseo de Montejo, a wide street with ten blocks (two per sidewalk per block) of sculptures from contemporary North American artists. I missed the highly-recommended Museo de Antropológico due to its shorted Sunday hours, and hope to catch it open tomorrow.

Most establishments close Sundays, which means greater crowds in the car-free downtown core. When experiencing Mérida, it becomes clear what Cancún lacks, and that is a heart, or corazón. What you see in Mérida is a real Mexican city at its finest, unencumbered by a weekly deluge of pale-skinned tourists looking for a postage stamp of beach and a drink in both hands. Well, at least they weren't burdened so before I showed up.

The plan was to leave for Palenque on the 11:30PM bus tonight, but there is so much to see within an hour of here that I decided to stay another full day. Progreso is a beachfront town only thirty minutes north, and many ruins and cenotes (sinkholes with fresh water for swimming, once used in Mayan ceremonies) are at most thirty minutes more. Plus, sitting around with the staff at The Nest has been great for my Spanish.

Given my discussions with Michèle from Québec, I get the sense that my travel plans may need a-changin', and soon. My current plans may mean missing all the treasures not written up in my guidebook; treasures like a Sunday in Ciudad Mérida.

*** A note on images - those I have posted to date are not my own, as I failed to bring a cord to connect my camera to a PC. There is a Canon shop that will be open tomorrow, so look for updated posts and photos tomorrow evening.

Cancún - Day Two

2006-01-27T18:13:00.000-08:00

I am kicking back on Av. Hidalgo, the main street on Isla Mujeres. Note that every town and city has an Av. Hidalgo, and 9 of 10 times this is the street where everything happens. The reason for it is due to Hidalgo's role in the Méxican Revolution, along the lines of the US's Lincoln or Canada's... Um... Adanac?

I woke up early, grabbed a shared taxi to Puerto Juaréz, and dropped the 70-peso return fare to take the half-hour ferry ride to Isla Mujeres. Once you are off the boat, you sense the difference between Cancún and Mujeres. This is aided by the following visible distinctions:

Taxis are actually golf carts, and sometimes mopeds.
The preffered mode of transport is on foot.
There is no Zona Hotelera.

I walked the avenue for about thirty seconds, then was drawn to the soft white sand beaches for my first taste of the Caribbean. After walking around the entire town (the beach wraps around the northern edge of the island, where the town centre is located), I thought my effort warranted a beer. I settled for a very fine espresso.

Slipping down to the South end of town, I stuck my thumb out hoping for a ride to the Turtle Refuge. I was picked up by the first car(t), but it was in all likelihood the slowest cart on the island. The couple from Wisconsin did not seem to mind, and we ended up toodling and beachcombing around the entire southern half of the island. This turned out to be a bit more interesting than the Turtle refuge, as the staff had long ago let all the larger turtles free in anticipation of the Hurricane.

Seeing locals race by on two wheels really has me thinking about buying a motocicleta, though I understand the paperwork is a nightmare. I will check into it tomorrow, but will not spend too much time - next stop is Mérida, and possibly the ruins at Chichén Itzá along the way.

So goodbye beach - nos vemos en seis semanas.

Cancún - Day One

2006-01-27T17:59:00.000-08:00

I am nearing the end of my first stint in Cancún, and I am generally getting the swing of things. That I have never travelled alone, have never hostelled, and have only a marginal grasp on Spanish left me with shaky knees at the airport. But before long, I found the cheapest way to el centro (15p on a luxury bus), found the hostel, and hit the supermarket for dinner. I have learned that one cold litre of beer costs the same as the aforementioned bus.

One item I should comment on is the effects of Hurricane Wilma on Cancún. The force the hurricane unleashed here is evident as you fly in, with all the trees in the area leaning at a 45 degree angle, away from el Mar de Caribe. The city itself seems unaffected, though I hear the hotel zone is still hurting.

On that note...

Imagine a big hotel. No, a REALLY big hotel. Now put about seventy of them side-by-side and then place them on the most glorious beachfront property in México. That is the Zona Hotelera, and I can see it on the skyline. You cannot miss it or the effect it has on Cancún - those who have been to Cabo San Lucas will understand.

Seattle in a Nutshell...

2006-01-27T17:45:00.000-08:00

I just could not help myself! There is just so much time (and money) that can be spent at REI. Heading to REI teaches you that everything can be smaller, lighter, and faster, but at a price. I did not exactly break the bank, but I did ensure I will be living on the cheap for the next couple of weeks.

Other notable items from my time in Seattle include a great Tuesday evening at the Capitol Club watching the Children of the Revolution please a full house. Thanks to the FG for that. Also topping the list was trivia night - the night I have heard so much about but have not until Wednesday lived. One black mark on trivia night was the screaming headache I received from their house red - it was my best friend all the way to this hostel in Cancún, where I now sit.

I packed my life into...

2006-01-23T10:57:00.000-08:00

... this!

As is customary, I did sew on one of these...

Canada Votes 2006

2006-01-23T09:52:00.000-08:00

I voted this morning - it took about four minutes. Of course, I will subject myself to three to four hours of election coverage tonight as I unpack and repack my travel bag, thinking that by watching I will somehow change the outcome.

But I already did. I voted. And I voted for a candidate and party, not against another. I am utterly baffled by the logic behind 'strategic' voting, which is one short step from voting for who you think's going to win. This approach works in horseracing, but little else.

If you want to be strategic, you vote for the person or party that aligns with your principles, not against one that does not. This helps in two ways:

1) Your vote reflects your principles, and is counted by the media, pollsters and (even opposing) political parties. This gives street cred to the candidate or party you choose.

2) Your vote supports your principles, as Elections Canada divides funding according to the votes parties receive. Increased funding means more resources for those who share your views, and more resources means a louder voice in the political landscape.

But don't take my word for it - Rafe Mair has posted an article on The Tyee debunking the notion of the 'wasted' vote. There are no wasted votes, unless you vote 'strategically', of course.

If anyone doubts Neko Case's abilities...

2006-01-18T12:11:00.000-08:00

... they obviously have never heard South Tacoma Way. I recommend to anyone who has come to understand the intricacies of of love and loss (or wants to) take a listen to this song. You don't really have to stop and really listen, because before long it will make you.

Some notable lines:

I put on that sweater you gave me
I woke up in the kitchen a few minutes later
I didn't know how I had gotten there
Did you guide me
...

So lost I was asleep in the palms of your hand
In dreams we were happy and safe
I can't comprehend the ways I miss you
They come to light in my mistakes
...

Some sites rightly include this is as one of the top ten love songs ever, alongside Leonard Cohen's Chelsea Hotel #2.

Of course, such top-ten lists are always biased, and usually controversial. We see this on CBC's National Playlist, where kd lang's rendition of Hallelujah somehow gets the nod in front of Rufus Wainwright's.

So, here's an open call to all, for your top-ten love songs ever.

It's not the needle that hurts...

2006-01-17T21:10:00.000-08:00

Over the past two days I have run the gamut of all of the immunisations and pills that allow my very fragile system to travel safely on my way. Not that I am complaining, but that put a dent in my travel budget big-time. Granted, how much would you spend to be (mostly) immune from Malaria, Typhoid, and Mumps (which I hear can make you sterile!!!)? I would say that complete coverage (not including lifetime HEP B immunisation, which costs a FORTUNE) at somwhere around $200 is a deal.

Of course, I did not get on the bandwagon and jump on Dukoral, which is a new oral treatment for common traveller's diarrhea. If you factor in the opportunity costs, and you are not too careful with your dietary decisions when abroad, then I bet dropping the 75 bucks or so on this is a good idea.

Frankly, I am more worried about saltwater crocodiles than a spell of the trots. Now that I am a bit more educated about these reptilian mommas (3-4m) and pappas (5-7m), my irrational fear of sharks has totally disappeared. All of a sudden, sharks look pretty darn nice.

Rick Mercer for Prime Minister

2006-01-12T15:19:00.000-08:00

Just in case those of you outside Canada didn't notice, we are in the throws of a fairly nasty federal election campaign. The stage is set as follows:

1) The incumbents are seen as crooked, and probably are, more than we ever know (though they were exonerated by the report into their crookedness).

2) The NDP pull at my heartstrings, but their leader has sounded like a broken record lately.

3) The Bloc have by far the best leader of the bunch, but they are intent on breaking up the country. Westerners - especially Albertans - still hold out hope for some Bloc representation in their ridings.

4) The Green Party is a party, but they aren't allowed to come to the leaders' debates - if they did come, the stage would be too cluttered, and fragile Canadians would get confused. Note that you can break through the confusion by finding the right person to agree with by the colour of their ties.

5) The Conservatives will likely form the next government. Green Party leader Jim Harris pointed out on CBC this morning that they are no longer called the Progressive Conservatives. There platform reflects this, but they will form a minority government nonetheless.

Which brings me to the point of this post. Rick Mercer should be Prime Minister. He has already chosen his Conservative Party Fantasy Cabinet, providing relevant quotes to support each posting. My personal favorite is not Stockwell Day, even though he represents my hometown; instead it is David Sweet, tapped for Minister responsible for the Status of Women, who is quoted as saying:

“There's a particular reason why Jesus called men only. It's not that women aren't co-participators. It's because Jesus knew women would naturally follow. Men, on the other hand, had to be called."

Who's your favourite?

Final Plans... Finally

2006-01-11T10:56:00.000-08:00

One of the hardest parts of planning travel is finalising where to go. After numerous discussions with other experienced travellers, my goal of taking on both South and Central America over the course of just over two months seemed less and less tenable. So, I have finally bit the bullet and booked a flight to Cancún, which will serve as the starting point for my Central American tour. It is ludicrous how inexpensive it is to travel such a long distance - only $650CDN return from Seattle - when recent shorter flights (Kelowna -> Victoria) amounted to $200, one-way.

It is entirely possible that receiving Lonely Planet's 'South America on a Shoestring' guidebook for XMas was the deciding factor in my trip. That and knowing that I will be able to rendezvous with my sister and her family on the beaches of Playa del Carmen on the last few days of my trip. Babysitting has been generously offered, and I will enjoy having some beach time with the Sonster. Here's hoping I don't look like a bushman when I join them - S. may not like the beard, and looking scruffy may limit my chances for surfing couch at the all-inclusive.

My tentative approach to Central America is: Cancún-> Guatemala -> Honduras -> El Salvador ( -> Nicaragua) -> Belize -> Playa del Carmen. Again, I suspect I am biting off too much geography, but there is simply too much to see to rule out any one place or people.

It has been hard to turn my back on South America, and the mysteries it has to offer any traveller, for another year. I hope that I have only delayed, not declined, my visit to this amazing continent.

Starting Out

2005-12-23T12:39:00.000-08:00

I have been free from work a week, and I already feel different. Different in a good way, mind you - I am in that grey area where I have no plans for any given day. The stress of work is now completely gone, as seen in my ability to sleep through the night. I think I should start breaking my days into 30-minute blocks, à la the protagonist in Nick Hornby's About A Boy. Rest assured, securing a good cup of coffee accounts for at least one of those blocks.

Christmas comes together starting today, and I am looking forward to seeing and playing with my niece, who has just started to walk (though she really prefers to run!). A party up the valley tonight will be a great chance to catch up with old friends - friends I sorely miss since moving from the Okanagan back in 2000.

The post-holiday holiday plans remain pretty fluid. Every time I hear an account of a different South American or Central American trip or experience, I want to alter my itinerary to include it. Already I get the sense that the planned two-month trip will extend into three or four, and could well consume half a year before all is said and done. Chile fell on and off the plan, but is now back on - I get the sense it will be a good first stop in South America, and may allow my travel shots to kick in before heading into Bolivia and Peru. Volunteer opportunities (Nicaragua/Costa Rica) and stunning hikes (Guatemala) and beaches (Belize) await in Central America.

The political situation in South America is fascinating at the moment, as numerous countries have opted for socialist leaders and governments. I look forward to talking to locals and gaining a perspective on the continent's move to the left, and witnessing the changes that may take place while I am there. It's a given that the Maple Leaf will be in full view throughout my travels, to prevent getting pegged/targeted as American. I imagine I will come across many Americans travelling under the same flag.

There are numerous resources available online for travelling throughout SA, and once I have a better index of these I will publish them for your persuing enjoyment. My primary source for news is the South America Daily, and a great hiking resource is the South America hiking section on Internet NEED to Know.